Archive

30 March 2012

The London Grill: Boris Johnson

We challenge our contributor to reply to ten devilishly probing questions about their London and we don't take "Sorry Gov" for an answer. Everyone sitting in the hot seat they will face the same questions ranging from their favourite way to spend a day out in the capital to their most hated building on London's skyline to find out what Londoners really think about their city. The questions might be the same but the answers vary wildly.

Today's Grillee needs no introduction, as London's Mayor he brings a unique perspective to his view of London. Boris Johnson was born in 1964. He was a trainee reporter for The Times, subsequently working at The Daily Telegraph, where he became assistant editor. He was editor of The Spectator for six years up to 2005. He has also published a number of works of fiction and non-fiction, most recently The Life of London.

In 2001 Boris Johnson was elected MP for Henley-on-Thames. He was been Vice Chairman of the Conservative Party and held shadow government posts for the arts and higher education. He resigned as an MP shortly after becoming Mayor of London in May 2008.

What's your secret London tip?

I would urge Londoners and tourists alike to seek out and enjoy a full English breakfast at one of the amazing family run so-called 'greasy spoon' cafes that have existed in this city for generations. 

What's your secret London place?

In the midst of the London's vast treasure trove of attractions is one of our less well-known gems. Across the river from City Hall, is the most wonderfully preserved stretch of Roman wall. Dating back to around 200 AD, it is a fantastic opportunity to marvel at the ingenuity of our Roman forebears, who built Londinium and helped shape the city we see today.

What's your biggest gripe about London?

It is a modern tragedy that so many of our young people are struggling to get a foothold in the jobs market and are drifting into crime. We need more youth opportunities and improved literacy levels in our schools, so that they are equipped to compete in the global market, which will help them to succeed in life and aspire to a better future.

What's your favourite building?

Home.

What's your most hated building?

Standing derelict for more than 20 years, the Granary Building threatened to be a blight on an area in central London that is amidst an amazing transformation. It has now undergone a spectacular reincarnation from a barren building, to a university for the arts. It has become a fantastic focus to the regeneration of the King Cross area, matching my own vision for the city.

What's the best view in London?

The view from my office window. The Tower of London, Tower Bridge, the City, Canary Wharf and the giant treble clef that is the Orbit visitor attraction in the Olympic Park. There's no better view in the world.

What's your personal London landmark?

The most iconic new landmark of modern times is the Shard of Glass. This huge engineering feat, rising confidently up to the heavens, is a symbol of how London is powering its way out of the global recession.

What's London's best film, book or documentary?

Johnson's Life of London, it contains a number of historical characters whom I greatly admire.

What's your favourite restaurant?

London is a fabulous destination for gourmands, with more than 50 Michelin-starred chefs working at some of the best restaurants in world. It is quite literally a cornucopia, with delicious food from across the globe to tantalise all taste buds.

How would you spend your ideal day off in London?

A bracing walk in the winter cold or an early morning jog in Highbury Fields is a perfect way to start your day. Followed by a visit to the British Museum, it's a wonderful Mecca offering an unparalleled collection of historic artefacts and gems.

30 March 2012

The London Grill: Robert Lordan

We challenge our contributor to reply to ten devilishly probing questions about their London and we don't take "Sorry Gov" for an answer. Everyone sitting in the hot seat they will face the same questions ranging from their favourite way to spend a day out in the capital to their most hated building on London's skyline to find out what Londoners really think about their city. The questions might be the same but the answers vary wildly.

Today we grill Robert Lordan author of the excellent website View from the Mirror.

If spending nearly five years getting his bill wasn't enough Rob then went on to successfully complete the Worshipful Company of Hackney Carriage Drivers course to become a tour guide and he conducts murder, Harry Potter and American themed tours.

What's your secret London tip?

We all love a good cuppa, so head for "Twinings" on the Strand (which has been at the location since 1706) and make your way right to the back of the premises.

Once there, you'll find a little, communal kitchen-type area. From here, you sample the wide array of tea on offer . . . all for free!  You might want to buy a packet of Darjeeling on the way out though.

What's your secret London place?

The area beside Cherry Garden Pier in Bermondsey. It's always peaceful, and has great views across the Thames towards Tower Bridge and the City. If you have time for a drink, The Angel on the corner of Cathay Street is superb.

There's a bit of history here too; the ruins of an old manor house, built by King Edward III, can be seen.

More sadly, a bench in the area was once home to my favourite London sculpture; Dr Salter's Daydream; a poignant statue representing a famous, Bermondsey doctor remembering his long-deceased, young daughter. In November 2011, the statue was nicked (probably for scrap metal). Broke my heart when I found out.

What's your biggest gripe about London?

I know it's an obvious answer, but it has to be the colossal number of CCTV cameras - or, to be more accurate - the way in which they are employed.

Do a u-turn in the wrong place or pull up for 1 minute on a double yellow, on a quiet road at 9.30pm (both real-life examples which I and many others have suffered) and wallop! You're branded a crook and forced to cough up your hard earned dough.

Meanwhile, a mile or so down the road, someone's getting mugged, or a gang of kids are having a knife fight. Sure, they sometimes catch footage of such events, but inevitably, they will be blurred, lazy and of no use at all. CCTV generally excels at snapping number plates with draconian efficiency, leading the likes of us to live in fear of a PCN every time we pass an orange light.

Where was the CCTV when Dr Salter's statue was being lifted, hey?

What's your favourite building?

St. Paul's Cathedral. Apart from being a beautiful piece of architecture, the fact that it emerged from the ashes of the Great Fire of London, and survived the devastating air-raid of 29th December 1940 (during which the famous photo of the building amongst the smoke was taken) means that it is the ultimate symbol of London's defiant spirit.

If you look up on the cathedral's south side, you'll see an image of a phoenix, above the Latin word: "Resurgum."  That says it all really.

What's your most hated building?

"50 Farringdon Road", that long, grey, blocky building really is architecture at its worst. Bland and overly-imposing at the same time, it shuts out daylight and turns that section of Farringdon Road into what feels like a deep, dark trench. Must be soul-destroying for the poor sods who have to work there.

What's the best view in London?

It's from Waterloo Bridge; especially at dusk. From there, you can see the two historic centres of London; The City and Westminster and everything which binds them together, glittering like a length of tinsel. If I've had a tough day, I'll often take a drive over it, just to remind me how gorgeous the city I work in really is.

What's your personal London landmark?

"Quality House" on Willesden Lane.  A dull building I suppose, but it used to be Brent registry office; the place I was taken as a baby and rubber-stamped into the world.

What's your favourite London film, book or documentary?

Very difficult to pick a favourite. I love anything made by the old Euston Films Company; The Sweeney, Minder - and of course, Jack Rosenthal's, The Knowledge, mainly because they were always filmed on location and are pure London.

If I had to choose though, I would probably go for a rare, film called Babylon. It was made all around New Cross and Brixton in 1980, long before gentrification. It also has glimpses of Soho when it was at its seediest, and contains a great reggae soundtrack.

What's your favourite bar, pub or restaurant?

"Lemongrass", which is on Royal College Street in Camden. It's the UK's only Cambodian restaurant; the food is terrific (a kind of fusion between Thai and French cuisine), reasonable prices and all cooked by just one chef, who you can see working at close quarters (the flames leaping off of his hob can be alarmingly high!)

As for pubs, I'm very fond of the 'Ye Old Swiss Cottage'. The beer is fairly priced and, being in the middle of a major junction, few people are willing to cross the road to get there; something which means the place is always nice and quiet. And it has its own tube station!

How would you like to spend your ideal day off in London?

I'd start with a hearty breakfast at one of the early-morning Smithfield pubs (maybe even a pint or two with the market boys as they clock off!)

I'd then head off to the Museum of London, one of our capital's best and check out their latest exhibition (Charles Dickens at the moment). I'd also spend a good while in their book shop, which is a treasure-trove of London trivia.

After that, I'd take a stroll through the city, enjoying the secret parks and the pure history of the place. If there was time, I'd squeeze in a visit to the top of The Monument.

For lunch, I'd hail a taxi over to Little Georgia on Goldsmiths Row in Hackney. This is another fantastic restaurant; the food is all home-cooked by a motherly chef. Their borsch is fantastic; made with cream, tasty sausages and enough spice to give it a kick; you can't beat it during a winter snap.

After a few pints of London Pride at the Old Ship on Mare Street, I'd head back west and catch an evening show- ideally, Warhorse which is just breath-taking. After a late night coffee at Bar Italia, I'd then catch a taxi home, and enjoy a good putting the world to rights chat with my fellow cabbie.

28 March 2012

London’s Urban Myths

The Seven Noses of Soho

The Myth of the seven Noses of Soho is a peculiar one. Rumour has it that there are seven sculpted noses on buildings in the square mile of Soho. It's said that if an individual finds all seven they also attain infinite wealth. Oh! If I find all seven noses and become infinitely wealthy you can be assured that I would share the infinite wealth fairly with everyone. Paul Raymond is the only person attributed to finding them turning him from a failed ventriloquist into a property mogul. But now one rather enterprising tour guide, Peter Berthoud, claims not only to have found all seven but is willing to share his discovery (and good fortune) with you on his Soho walks.

Pigeon Travel cards

It's not much as urban legends go, but many people claim that pigeons regularly ride the Underground on certain routes, routinely boarding and exiting at the same stations. Not surprisingly, my sources aren't clear on which stations or lines the pigeons have been seen riding. I've seen one board a train at Earl's Court, but I'm not certain it was deliberate. I didn't see it alight from the train, either. Scary thought, that: first clever sheep, now intelligent commuting sky rats.

Ghost of the Underground

While on the theme of the Underground, it is less expected to discover a ghost on the Tube, and not far from the Tower. Staff at Aldgate station have been keeping a log of such incidents since the 1950s. In one report a maintenance worker is said to have survived a 22,000 volt shock from the third rail, immediately after a colleague had observed what he took to be a grey-haired figure, presumably his guardian angel, gently stroking his hair.

Queen's Resting Place

Boudica was queen of the Iceni tribe of East Anglia. She joined up with the Trinovantes of Essex to rebel against the Roman treatment of her people. Together they attacked Roman settlements at Colchester, St Albans and destroyed the city of Londinium in AD60. She is said to be buried under platform 9 or 10 of King's Cross Station.

Nelson in a gilded cage

Contrary to the popular rumour Nelson's body isn't in the gilded ball on the top of St. Paul's Cathedral but down below in the crypt. Brought back to England preserved in a barrel of rum, Nelson's body on arrival was placed in a magnificent sarcophagus originally intended for Cardinal Wolsey. The Cardinal didn't need it after his altercation with Henry VIII.

Sniffy Judges

Judges presiding at the Old Bailey today still at certain times carry nosegays of aromatic herbs. This is a tradition harking back to a time when typhus or "jail fever" was endemic in the Justice Hall of Newgate. There is of course no evidence that a nosegay provides any protection whatsoever.

Camelot in Cockfosters?

Sir Thomas Mallory seemed convinced that Winchester was Camelot.  Now there is another contender for the site of Arthur's legendary Court, this time in North London, at the far end of the Piccadilly Line. Yes, I know it sounds rather far-fetched, but all the evidence (and there is plenty of it) indicates that a real Camelot once existed at the very centre of Enfield Chase, the Royal Hunting Ground of the Plantagenet Kings. Today it is still there, hidden in woods on the fringe of Trent Country Park, and known as Camlet Moat. Archaeological digs have been conducted, back in the 1880s and again in 1923 and some interesting finds were unearthed. They suggest a substantial structure with stone walls over five and a half feet thick, a massive drawbridge 38ft long and a subterranean dungeon. Sounds like a castle, doesn't it? Smaller relics from the Roman period suggest the site is originally of impressive antiquity.

So how far will your cabbie go?

Sorry, I had to clear up this Urban Myth. Cabbies do not have to take you wherever you choose. Unless we have a good reason not to, drivers must: Accept any hiring up to 12 miles (20 miles if starting at Heathrow Airport) or one hour duration if the destination is in Greater London. Fares for destinations outside Greater London may be negotiated between the passenger and driver before the journey. If no fare is agreed before the start of the journey then the maximum fare will be that shown on the meter at the end of the journey. There, now don't ask me again.

26 March 2012

The Bloomsbury Set

Once home to those Bohemian artists who made such an impact on Edwardian London, this area of London roughly bounded by Tottenham Court Road in the east, Euston Road on its northern edge, Gray's Inn Road to the west and New Oxford Street through Bloomsbury Way and Theobalds Road at its southern extremity has remained neglected since the 1920s.

It was, in its day, the place to be seen for the fashionable enfants terrible of the literary and arts scene in London, with their emphasis on close interpersonal relationships and a fastidious attitude towards contemporary culture. They held sceptical views on social and political conventions and religious practices with many people accusing them of elitism. Whether you were discussing your views while partaking tea at the Hotel Russell (note it's not the Russell Hotel), strolling through the British Museum viewing the artefacts plundered from around the world or enjoying its many gardens, you were the talk of literary London.

But after the Second World War this area had been allowed to lapse into a race track of one-way streets and frequented by the scruffy students from University College of London. Now this area has been quietly undergoing a makeover.

First the British Museum constructed Norman Foster's glass-covered court [above], a triumph of architecture, then St George's Church [below] the sixth and final London church designed in 1731 by the leading architect of the English Baroque, Nicholas Hawksmoor was reopened to the public in 2006 following a five-year restoration made possible by the generosity of the Paul Mellon Estate and the Heritage Lottery Fund.

And quietly while this was going on Camden Council, in a rare excursion from hounding the motorist, has turned its attention to the Squares of Bloomsbury which remarkably for this small area of London it can boast no fewer than 19 squares and gardens:

Russell Square, a large and orderly square; its gardens were originally designed by Humphry Repton. The square is adjacent to the Russell Hotel and a short distance from Russell Square Tube Station.

Bedford Square, built between 1775 and 1783, is still surrounded by its original town houses and is one of the finest Georgian squares in London.

Bloomsbury Square, a small circular garden, but called a square, is also surrounded by Georgian buildings including the former Victorian House and state home of the Lord Chancellor.

Queen Square, home to many hospitals including the National Hospital for Neurology and Neurosurgery.

Gordon Square, surrounded by the history and archaeology departments of University College London, as well as the former home of John Maynard Keynes, the famous economist.

Woburn Square, once an elegant Georgian square, demolished in 1969 to make way for the School of Oriental and African Studies.

Torrington Square, once known as the field of forty footsteps, also known as Brothers' Steps, it was the ground which two brothers fought a duel in the 1680s over a girl with whom they were both in love. They were both killed. Tradition has it that 40 of their footprints were to be seen here for several years and no grass would grow upon the bank which the girl sat to watch the duel. The square is now home to other parts of University College London.

Tavistock Square, home to the British Medical Association; its eastern edge was the site of one of the 7th July 2005 London bombings.

Mecklenburgh Square, east of Coram's Fields, one the few squares which remains locked for the use of local residents.

Coram's Fields, a large recreational space on the eastern edge of the area, formerly home to the Foundling Hospital. It is only open to children and those adults accompanying children.

Brunswick Square, now occupied by the School of Pharmacy and the Foundling Museum.

Cartwright Gardens, this Georgian square is named after the political reformer who campaigned for universal suffrage, voting by ballot, annual parliaments and the end to slavery.

Regent Square, a small square with a Regency Terrace on one side.

Georges Gardens, small gardens adjoining Mecklenburgh Square.

Argyll Square, a small square to the north of Bloomsbury in need of restoration.

Two private squares off Bedford Place, these lie behind the properties on either side of this Georgian street.

21 March 2012

Let the train take the strain

All over central London holes are appearing, some small, some like at Tottenham Court Road, huge, all for the purpose of improving your travel experience with Cross Rail. The scheme might, at this point, seem a crazy idea, but its predecessors were simply barking mad.

The first ever railway in London was the London & Greenwich Line and ran for almost its entire 3.75 mile length along an elevated viaduct, thereby, its planners reasoned, avoiding congestion at ground level. Unfortunately it would take 878 brick arches to construct which were both expensive and time-consuming, for what was a journey that could be walked in less than an hour.

Later in 1840 the Blackwall Tunnel to Minories line used stationary engines at either end and hauled the carriages along using stout cables attached to the carriage-ends.

In 1861 a London engineer Sir John Fowler designed a smokeless engine for London's new underground network. Fuelled by red-hot b ricks placed under the boiler it unsurprisingly made only one brief experimental run, and was for given the moniker "Fowler's Ghost".

Before electrification smoke filled tunnels continued to be the norm, how anybody survived a journey, one can only imagine. Early Metropolitan Line trains were initially fitted with a tank in which the smoke was routed allowing it to be discharged each time a train broke cover.

At Crystal Palace in 1864 the new atmospheric railway was launched. It was smoke free as its tightly fitting carriages were pushed into a circular tunnel in the manner of a piston forcing them along using only air pressure. History doesn't record how many ear drums were perforated. In 1867 a similar system was demonstrated at the American Institute Fair in New York [pictured], Alfred Ely Beach demonstrated a 32.6 m long, 1.8 m diameter pipe that was capable of moving 12 passengers plus a conductor.

In 1943 Professor Sir Patrick Abercrombie, forgetting that there was a war on, proposed that tunnels were excavated all over the place in order to reduce congestion on the surface. Apart from the fact that hardly any traffic was seen in London during the war, it proposed that a tunnel be bored under Buckingham Palace; the plans probably to this day lie on a shelf gathering dust.

Not content with the Victorian vandalism of removing the colonnades along the length of Nash's Regent Street. The Greater London Council in 1967 (probably at the behest of Ken Livingstone) commissioned a feasibility study for twin overhead passenger monorails to run down the middle of Regent Street. Once they were built one supposes that another feasibility study would be needed to decide where the Christmas decorations should be situated.

19 March 2012

Must break wind

CAB is one of the many acronyms learnt on The Knowledge; this one is the aide memoire for three bridges spanning the Thames at its wealthiest location: Chelsea, Albert and Battersea, and one - Albert - is arguably London's prettiest and most feminine. Except for Tower Bridge, built in 1894, Albert Bridge is the only Thames road bridge in central London never to have been replaced.

Built by R. M. Ordish in 1873 Albert Bridge (note: it's never referred to as The Albert Bridge) has now come to the end of a major restoration project. As well as structural damage caused by traffic, the timbers underpinning the deck were being seriously rotted by the urine of dogs crossing it to and from nearby Battersea Park. Now re-painted pink and strung with fairy lights the adjacent cabbies hut must be one of the most romantic locations in London for a greasy spoon cafe.

The unusual construction, and you are going to have to bear with me on this one, has three spans and what's known in engineering circles as a straight-link suspension system. Each half of the bridge is supported by wrought iron bars attached to the top of the two highly ornamental towers. Meanwhile the side girders along the parapets are suspended, making the bridge an odd mix of cantilever and suspension.

On the south side is evidence of the bridge's early revenue stream, a small hexagonal toll house, a rare survival and the only bridge left with one anywhere in London. But for me the best thing about this, my favourite bridge, is the sign affixed to the toll booth.

Suspension bridges have an alarming tendency to sway to synchronised movements, known as "synchronous lateral excitation", a modern example was a little over a decade ago when the Millennium Bridge opened and a pronounced wobble was produced by pedestrians when they walked across the newly opened bridge, nicknamed the wobbly bridge this was rectified by dampers. For Albert Bridge the only modifications has been the suspension members which were overhauled by London's sewers architect Sir Joseph Bazalgette who in 1884 overhauled the ineffective suspension members.

Which brings us neatly back to the sign which local well educated wags have altered giving generations of schoolboys hours of mirth.

'All troops must break step wind when marching over this bridge'.

16 March 2012

The London Grill: Henry Cruickshank

We challenge our contributor to reply to ten devilishly probing questions about their London and we don't take "Sorry Gov" for an answer. Everyone sitting in the hot seat they will face the same questions ranging from their favourite way to spend a day out in the capital to their most hated building on London's skyline to find out what Londoners really think about their city. The questions might be the same but the answers vary wildly.

Today we grill adopted Londoner Henry Cruickshank currently living between Islington and Dalston, but he hails from the rolling hills of sunny cider country, Herefordshire, and is a member of the London Living team. London Living is a blog which aims to provide a view of London written by Londoners for Londoners and promises to shine a light on the everyday issues that matter to Londoners. It's brought to you by East Village, a brand new neighbourhood which will emerge in Stratford once the athletes have left their temporary home this summer. Let's shine a light on Henry to come up with some answers.

What's your secret London tip?

It may sound obvious, but hardly anyone bothers: topping your Oyster card up on a Sunday evening, instead of fighting the queues on Monday morning, is well worth it.

What's your secret London place?

I've got too many! The Counter Café in Hackney Wick is a hidden gem. It sits right on the canal and not only do you get fantastic food (you won't find finer salmon) but you get a great view of the Olympic Park that looms close by. You also get access to the conjoined Stour Space gallery - a lovely space that showcases a whole host of art works from emerging London artists. Polpo Soho does the best tapas in the West End -head there at lunchtime to avoid queues and save money...

What's your biggest gripe about London?

Boring but unavoidable - Tube etiquette - trying to squeeze onto an empty train because everyone is huddled around the doorways and is refusing to move further into the carriage is infuriating!

What's your favourite building?

I think everyone has a soft spot somewhere for the iconic BT Tower; it has stood the test of time, standing tall and majestic for 45 years (was sad to see its satellites go over Christmas though).

What's your most hated building?

Hate is a strong word, but as an Arsenal supporter, can I express my dislike for White Hart Lane?

What's the best view in London?

The view from 13 floors up at East Village is incredible. You get a full panoramic view of the entire city of London, from one side to the other and on a clear day it is simply unbeatable.

What's your personal London landmark?

It's not really a landmark, but the bronze statue of Sir John Betjeman at St. Pancras Station has personal relevance to me. It is a work by British sculptor Martin Jennings, who is a family member.

What's your favourite London film, book or documentary?

I've got to say Oliver Twist: winding back streets, East End grit, pick pockets and frightening criminals. Great stuff. As for films which depict London, you can't beat Lock, Stock & Two Smoking Barrels. Many have tried to emulate it since, but none have matched it in my opinion.

What's your favourite bar, pub or restaurant?

Le Mercury in Islington is always hot on the lips of Londoners. It's a lovely little French restaurant on Upper Street. There's nothing fancy about it, but it's intimate, cosy and always packed for a reason - you can also get a three course meal for under £15 and the food is sumptuous. There's also a lovely little restaurant in Stoke Newington, just off the green, called Acoustic. It's also French, simple and delicious and they do the most amazing array of breakfasts there. For those wanting something a little more formal, Bethnal Green's Viajante is the place to go for a spot of fine dining I would get up at a leisurely hour, pop to London Fields Lido for a morning swim before heading to Acoustic for some brunch. Then I'd probably tackle some piled-up weekly admin at home, before heading to the Tate Modern in the early afternoon. Afterwards, I'd either head to Greenwich Park for a sun downer or grab my bike and take off up to Hampstead Heath for some exercise! I'd swing by the Snooty Fox in Canonbury for a deserved thirst-quencher on the way home and, if I felt up to it, I might go to the Rio Cinema on Kingsland High Street to see a film. Then bed (it would be a long day).

How would you like to spend your ideal day off in London

I would get up at a leisurely hour, pop to London Fields Lido for a morning swim before heading to Acoustic for some brunch. Then I'd probably tackle some piled-up weekly admin at home, before heading to the Tate Modern in the early afternoon. Afterwards, I'd either head to Greenwich Park for a sun downer or grab my bike and take off up to Hampstead Heath for some exercise! I'd swing by the Snooty Fox in Canonbury for a deserved thirst-quencher on the way home and, if I felt up to it, I might go to the Rio Cinema on Kingsland High Street to see a film. Then bed (it would be a long day).

14 March 2012

Regency retail park

If you should jump into a London cab and direct the driver to Locks he will drive you to number 6 St. James's Street. That is according to the website of London's most famous hatters, James Lock of St. James's, but just don't ask for a bowler while you're there, at Locks it's called a Coke hat, after William Coke a farmer from Holkham, Norfolk, for whom Locks made that first such headgear in 1850.

But this cabbie was surprised to find after reading David Long's Tunnels, Towers & Temples that Locks have a rear entrance giving onto Crown Passage. For years I've driven down Pall Mall little realising that alongside Quebec House, with its blue and while flag, lies the entrance to Crown Passage as perfect example of a Georgian shopping centre as you'll find in London.

Many of the little shop fronts in this side street are Georgian, Lock's small wooden bay window on its serpentine brackets is a reminder of the period when shopkeepers were starting to be a bit more assertive in their architectural display, pushing their windows out towards the street to attract passers-by. But they were only allowed to invade the pavement-space by so much - there were strict regulations about how far they could protrude. In a narrow street like this - it's little more than an alley, really - your windows were only meant to stick out 5 inches or less.

Next door is the Red Lion pub which calls itself London's last village pub, this little alleyway has a village feel about it with shops for all your daily requirements: hats, shoes, groceries, papers, dry cleaners and a sandwich shop, there is even a chimney sweep.

The Red Lion also plays a part in a curious custom on 30th January each year when The Royal Stuart Society laments the death of the monarch, Charles I executed in Whitehall on that day in 1649.

Wearing full Cavalier attire they first lay wreaths at the base of the King's statute at Charing Cross, on the southern side of Trafalgar Square, itself the point where all distances are measured from in London. The statute by Hubert Le Sueur in 1633 has a curious tale. In 1649 John Rivett, a brazier, was ordered to destroy it by Cromwell, but he buried the statute in his garden and made a fortune by selling souvenirs allegedly from the metal. He then gave the intact statute back to his son Charles II upon the Restoration of the Monarchy.

Having done their duty for King and country like many societies The Royal Stuart Society repair to the pub after a job well done, The Red Lion in Crown Passage.

12 March 2012

The London Grill: Diane Burstein

We challenge our contributor to reply to ten devilishly probing questions about their London and we don't take "Sorry Gov" for an answer. Everyone sitting in the hot seat they will face the same questions ranging from their favourite way to spend a day out in the capital to their most hated building on London's skyline to find out what Londoners really think about their city. The questions might be the same but the answers vary wildly.

Today we grill Diane Burstein, for her  responses. Diane is a registered London Blue Badge Guide, her contributions to LBC radio's Steve Allen Show and  BBC Radio London's Saturday Breakfast Show have helped to make her one of London's best known tour guides. She is the author of "London Then and Now" and teaches Discovering London courses for the City Lit and Bishopsgate Institute.  Diane enjoys showing Londoners and visitors the hidden courtyards, alleyways and back streets of the capital away from the tourist trail. To find out more about Diane's tours for groups go to her website. To find out about tours and visits that individuals can join you can email Diane.

What's your secret London tip?

As an alternative to the more touristy Thames, explore the towpaths by the Regents Canal. It will take you through affluent areas, edgy areas, former industrial areas, arty areas and green parkland areas.

What's your secret London place?

King's College Chapel, King's College in the Strand. Lovely Victorian chapel designed by George Gilbert Scott, the architect of the St  Pancras Renaissance Hotel and Albert Memorial. Is open to the visitors in term time during the week.

What's your biggest gripe about London?

That there are too many chain shops and greedy landlords are putting up the rents for the small businesses which are finding it difficult to survive.

What's your favourite building?

RIBA Headquarters in Portland Place (I love Art Deco).

What's your most hated building?

The Robin Hood Estate in Poplar.

What's the best view in London?

The view  of the City skyline from 1 New Change, the new shopping centre in Cheapside.

What's your personal London landmark?

A romantic one this:  The Harold Pinter Theatre (previously the Comedy theatre) where I had my first date with my partner Gerry (Little Shop of Horrors 1983).

What's your favourite London film, book or documentary?

"Every Day Except Christmas" - a documentary made by Lindsay Anderson about Covent Garden Market in the 1950s.

What's your favourite bar, pub or restaurant?

Favourite pub: The Princess Louise in Holborn with lots of original Victorian features. 

How would you like to spend your ideal day off in London?

Exploring the small art galleries of Mayfair with my partner who loves art followed by a show at one of my favourite Fringe Theatres - The Union at Southwark, The Finborough at Earls Court and the Landor at Clapham usually put on a good show.

12 March 2012

Dr. Johnson’s magnum opus

That most quintessential of Londoners Dr. Samuel Johnson has become the capital's favourite adopted son. He is the most quoted person in the English language after Shakespeare and with his famous verdict on the City "When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life; for there is in London all that life can afford", has virtually guaranteed him iconic status.

CABBIE n. (colloq).   Erudite fellow much given to express anti-Whig opinion who upon exchange of monies will, by Hansom carriage, convey a person within London's northern environs.

Born in Lichfield, Staffordshire in 1709 and educated at Pembroke College, Oxford leaving without a degree due to ill health, Johnson came to London in 1737 and scraped a living as a journalist. By all accounts to remain Johnson's company would have required a strong stomach, even for those days. He was grossly overweight who "had no passion for clean linen" and "showed no enthusiasm for bathing". His wig didn't even fit properly, and was usually singed on one side from holding a candle to near on account of his poor eyesight.

MINI-CAB n.   A Sedan with Oriental provenance of indeterminate age used to convey the inebriated by its driver whose paucity of English is matched only by his geographical knowledge.

Johnson's wife Elizabeth "Tetty" porter was no better, who in the opinion of his friend Robert Levett, was "always drunk and reading romances in her bed where she killed herself by taking opium".

In 1746 Johnson was commissioned by a syndicate of booksellers to write the first comprehensive Dictionary of the English Language. He rented at £30 per annum 17 Gough Square and with the help of his six amanuenses compiled the Dictionary in the garret. It was published in 1755. The painter, Sir Joshua Reynolds, on a visit to view the great man at work noted that "besides his books, all covered with dust, there was an old crazy deal table and a still worse and older elbow chair having only three legs", which Johnson managed to sit upon without support.

KNOWLEDGE, THE n. An accumulation of local information which doth give one granted the illusion of superior powers and wisdom.

For here in 1755 Johnson despatched a messenger with the last proofs of the dictionary to Andrew Millar, the bookseller, in the Strand. When he returned Johnson asked what Millar had said. "Sir," answered the messenger, "Thank God I have done with him."

Johnson fell on hard times and left the house the following year, he was arrested for debt in 1758 and was bailed out by his friend Samuel Richardson. He went on to live in a number of lodgings dying in 1784, leaving a body of work as an essayist, journalist, satirist, novelist and as the leading literary critic of his time. He laid down standard for the use of English comparative literature and founded the Literary Club, but his Dictionary of the English Language was not (as is often claimed) the first English dictionary, but it was certainly the most important one published up to that date. It went through numerous editions, and was not superseded until the publication in 1928 of the Oxford English Dictionary.

MUSEUM n. A repository of historic memorabilia much frequented by children carrying pencils and clipboards, each bearing a bored countenance.

Little is known of 17 Gough Square after Johnson's departure until Thomas Carlyle visited it in 1832, who noted its dilapidated condition and described the tiny garden as little larger than a bed quilt. In 1910 the newspaper baron and Liberal Member of Parliament Cecil Harmsworth purchased in house for a reputed £3,500 and restored the House to its original condition and opening it to the public in 1912. At the same time, a cottage was built as the Curator's residence. The City of London suffered extensive damage during the Second World War and Dr Johnson's House was nearly destroyed on three occasions during the bombing of 1940-41.

This elegant late 17th century house is the only original house in Gough Square, and the only remaining house of those many in which Johnson lived in London. The timber used in its construction is American white and yellow pine which was bought back as ballast in ships trading with the colonies. The House (open to the public) is now run by the Dr Johnson's House Trust and the present Lord Harmsworth is the Chairman of the Board of Governors.

BLOG n. Electronick diary unto which earnest fools do commit their innermost thoughts, safe that no man shall ever read them.